Reading the information it seems that its now even ok to re-shell a car! I think they have gone too far with that!

So since the V5 will not be updated, by their own rules DVLA do not need to be informed. 🙂

As it currently stands, that announcement overall implies little or no change. The part of it most relevant to us is that the rules will apply to vehicles of any age - but that has now been withdrawn? Why ...

And what about previously deleted vehicles? Are they going to be resurrected?

I fully agree - I just can’t imagine how they will manage to create a halfway house between the previous situation and the apparent new one!

https://www.gov.uk/government/news/dvla ... n-policies

Does this mean the end of IVA and SVA tests?

Looks tidy - id be interested to see how it feels with solid mounts - im thinking about going solid on the next build.

Any welding or drilling done to the mini body will invalidate your V5 if the DVLA check your vehicle. This had happened to @turbopete

Was that the opto mini, what did they fail it on, did they allow it to be corrected??


It was the Opto Mini (My mini) - they failed it on "allegedly" having 6 ...

i agree, i also enjoyed the build, such a shame as there was a good chance that with the gained knowledge and the help and knowledge on here a more affordable conversion could have been developed, some of the prices for conversions/kits are crazy


I’m working on this now - not as a business ...

Think they ended up going out of business.


I was one half of this - It all started very positive however there was a massive shift in the perception of EV's in general in the middle of 2022, along with a big hike in electricity bills - both of which obviously had an impact on the conversion ...

Charger and inverter landed today, collected mock up subframe yesterday along with spare driveshafts (justincaseifuckup) Whats everyone’s thoughts on vcu, acc pedal, anything else i need to get the thing spinning????


I would definitely recommend Toms VCU (Citini EVS-VCU) Its proven in 2 builds ...

Wanted - has anyone (as near to East Yorkshire as possible) got a bmw hybrid battery box - don’t need the modules but could do with all the cooling plates etc as I threw mine away and I’ve had a change of plan! Cheers, pete.

Pm sent

I have the motor mounted in the OEM position ( all be it running reversed ) and have had no leaks in just shy of 2000 miles.

Hello ev8! I’m pretty sure I could make any length work - I’m adding a 6th module to a 5 module pack so just need one extra lead - unfortunately the only battery connector that’s currently not used got damaged in transit so I’ll be looking for a replacement myself at some point!

Hi - as per the title - does anyone have an internal bmw hybrid battery link cable for sale? I’m looking to add a 6th module to my pack and need an extra cable? Cheers, pete.

Hi, has anyone successfully used these with rapid charging of any sort? Especially without any form of cooling?

Many thanks for that! I’ll be watching the development of your v2 board with interest!

Im looking to use an output from the dash controller to control a couple of relays that will break the connections between the charge port and the vcu. This might be a daft question but what are the MTR pins for? Also are the HC out pins used at all? i cant find anything in the code that refers to ...

Hm... you could readback the heater CAN temp byte4 and run the pump when temp is higher than X. It would require a transistor and a relay, but you would have a circulation system independant of heat source. I wanted to built similar heating myself. On one side Outlander heater run by a DUE uC and ...

Interesting development today - the heater wouldnt start until the temperature got above -1 degrees C!

It’s awesome and great work! I’d like to add a safety delay to switching off the water pump until the temp is back down to say 30 degrees C! Probably have to make it permantly live tho to ensure it runs even when the ignition is switched off. Either that or just get a delayed relay!

Got it working nicely now! Love the display output aswell - very useful!

Is it worth adding a timer to allow the heater coolant pump to run for a couple of minutes after the heater has been turned off? Or is the heater unit robust enough not to worry about?

Scratch that last question - i figured out that my code was still wrong! This is the code that i am using now:

#include <mcp_can.h>
#include <SPI.h>
#include <TaskScheduler.h>
#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_GFX.h>
#include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h>

#define SCREEN_WIDTH 128 // OLED display width ...

Should i be receiving water temperature if HV is not connected? At the moment i just get "No temperature Recieved" - thats with the heater connected up on the bench and no water in it?