Hi, how did you find the right MC? Unfortunately my OEM MC has an 89mm bolt spacing whereas the one uses in the ibooster I have is 100mm. I could fabricate am adapter plate and extend the pushrod but something using the right bolt spacing, bore, hydraulic ratio and brake line connections would be ...

Hi,

so just as of today I got the Yaris iBooster up and running in my MX-5.

ATM I am not entirely happy with the brake feel. The brake is stiff for a splitt second, then starts to go down to breaking point - I thought there should be more generic feel to the pedal. The breaking itself is ...

Have a look at 280 size relays, I wire up all sorts of conversions with these and don't have issues other than when you over do the current draw, 25a is to much for the pins more than relays
Lots of size options and open layout plan let's you do what you want with the number of fuses or relays ...

Thanks for the responses. Space is definitely a factor, so micro relays are preferred. I won't be cheaping out on poor quality parts, so as long as there are no general concerns then I think my mind is made up

Chris

Hi all,

I'm starting work on a custom fuse box for a conversion. It will cover only low voltage systems. I am considering the MTA modular system, but I am going back and forth on a query.

For relays (fog lights, head lights, horn, etc), are there any preferences between "standard" relays (e.g ...

Bleeding the brakes is a job for me this weekend. I didn't bench-bleed my master and new lines, so there's a fair amount of air in there, but the plan was always to do a flush as it's been about ten years since the last brake fluid flush anyway.

No clicking from mine yet on power-up, but due to the ...

A small amount of "exciting news";

I ended up buying a whole iBooster/master cylinder from Lithuania for ~£110 just for the reservoir :? At least I've got it now, and it fits like a glove in the car :D . I can also sell off the iBooster and reservoir-less master cylinder on the bay to make the ...

My issue with the comments are the dramatic uses of words like "unknown stresses and strains" and "massive weight of the batteries". Because the stresses and strains are known, we know the nm of torque the motor outputs and the weight of it. The massive weight isn't always that massive, sometimes ...

I'll be sniffing LIN and WKUP as soon as possible - I'm intrigued. The +12V and GND are obvious of course, and OUT seems to be the line for providing working power to the iBooster in case of a power cut. The other two must be to do with identifying a power cut condition but I'm just guessing.

An ...

I have received the Brake Control Power Module :D cute little thing that it is.

PXL_20250102_121609166.jpg

It's roughly 14 x 12 x 5 centimeters.

I've found a convenient place it, right next to the iBooster, tucked under the wing;

PXL_20250102_151318355.jpg

There are three less-than-perfect ...

Update on the reservoir - after further browsing and googling, I've found that the reservoir from a VW Golf Mk7 or Passat B8 (LHD version) not only matches the clocking of the Yaris master cylinder, but fits the package space I have and has the fluid level sensor on the convenient side of the ...

Just to throw another idea in the mix, what about the Transit Custom PHEV as a source for a rex? 1.0 ecoboost mated to a generator? I know they're not very common vehicles but could be an interesting study...?

Excellent, thanks.

Don't know about the power level. Assist curve and remote control of the brake can probably be controlled via CAN


I'm hoping to be able to contribute on this one at least - part of my team at work handles ADAS simulation, so they are all over CAN signals and debugging ...

Also, I've been wondering about this "failsafe" mode which is also mentioned. I understand that the theory is that if the CAN signals are absent, the unit will work in this "failsafe" mode, but from what I can tell, other than some diagnostics and the ability to remote-control the pedal, I'm not ...

Ah thanks for the hint. Were there any messages required to kick it into life, or simply the 120ohm termination?

I was lucky enough to receive the pedal position sensor connector (and it's mini-loom) with the iBooster when I bought it, but I've had to source the main connector and terminals/seals ...

I need to put the wiring loom together and get the hardlines flared, then I will do some CANBUS sniffing and experimentation with the additional inputs and outputs, then I'll post an update

On the wiring, after some searching and an eventual defeat by paywall, I have purchased the wiring manuals for the Yaris MK4. They reveal that the wiring is not the same on the Yaris as it is in other iBooster Gen2 applications.

Interestingly, there is a "Brake Control Power Module" (89680-K0010 ...

17353974359902308695674840159260.jpg
Installed with a temporary remote reservoir (Honda CRV), although unfortunately I can't use a remote reservoir as there is no obvious space to mount one properly. I had to grind a very small amount of flange off the bottom of the iBooster to allow it to fit ...

I'm starting this thread to share some information I've found specifically regarding the Gen2 iBooster found in the Gen4 Yaris, and the possibility of using this in homebrew applications.

For my own project, I'm taking the long approach to one day electrifying a 2003 Mazda MX5 (NB2.5). It's not my ...

Nice work! I'm doing this same conversion but on a Miata NB (MX5 in UK). I was wondering, in your pics of the main connector wiring, there was a thin black wire on pin 15 - any idea where that went? Is it another ground connection? I don't see it listed in any of the pinout diagrams I've seen ...