Gen1 Leaf and ZV spin up issues [SOLVED]

[deleteduser1]

Just watched your video. You are looking at the resolver signals, I guess you unplugged it and it gets unhappy it can not see the required resolver feedback.

It also looks soldered and botched together. Did you modify the OEM harness?

Yeah, its "botched together" as I mentioned above. I've taken it apart and started over from zero so many times now, i've stopped making it pretty. It will be properly repaired once I get to a state where that is justified. Its ugly but there are no shorts and I measured continuity from pin to pin. it was taped over, but that was removed for making the video. I appreciate your concern, agree its not pretty, but it is functional for my current needs.

I have been using this image I posted below as reference. Also as I noted above, I measured these pins and got what I felt was appropriate "~40ohms for sin/cos, 20 ohms for exciter, and temp sense was 15k-ish. No shorts to case. Seem about right?"

As I understand it, here is the correct wiring I've conjured up from the sources I could find. Maybe I got the connector backwards, as the pin numbering on the connector is reverse the manual. Note: when I disconnect HV and spin the motor by hand, I can see speed go up to a positive number, and when i spin it opposite direction, it goes to a negative value (on the gui) - spot values.

PDM Pin / Resolver Pin & ID / color
1 / 1 Sin + / Black
6 / 8 Sin - / Green
20 / 7 Cos + / Pink
27 / 6 Cos - / Blue
31 / 4 Temp gnd / Orange
32 / 3 Temp / BLK&PNK
34 / 5 EX / Red
35 / 2 ! EX / Green

[deleteduser1]

Just watched your video. You are looking at the resolver signals, I guess you unplugged it and it gets unhappy it can not see the required resolver feedback.

After re-reading this, I'm not sure if what I'm trying to show is being conveyed so I want to clarify; I plug it in, power on and in that brief period it spits out the waveform and then stops. Only then do I unplug anything. Maybe that's what you meant, but I just wanted to make sure its clear since you're taking all this time to help.

I'm guessing it doesn't like my resolver wiring, but I guess I'm not seeing the correct way based on my understanding of the resources and measurements I've come across.

[tom91]

No idea but your inverter is not happy with the resolver. If it is plugged in and you see that behaviour something clearly does not add up.

Did you start with an OEM harness? I do not know how the twisted pairs are and the shielding is done of the resolver wiring.

[deleteduser1]

No idea but your inverter is not happy with the resolver. If it is plugged in and you see that behaviour something clearly does not add up.

Did you start with an OEM harness? I do not know how the twisted pairs are and the shielding is done of the resolver wiring.

I'm using the original OEM one and wired 1:1 as it came. The pairs are twisted and shielded.

I'll wire up a new one and see what happens

[deleteduser1]

No idea but your inverter is not happy with the resolver. If it is plugged in and you see that behaviour something clearly does not add up.

Well, thanks to you driving me to rewire it again (thank you!), I've discovered an issue with the wiring, and for the life of me, I can't make heads or tails of this. Is the exciter single-ended? I guess I expected differential

I have it wired correctly per the 2011 Service Manual. But the pins don't match the circuit. I can't see any other way for the pins to line up, so I can't imagine they're transposed...

Referring to the green external PDM connector, Pin 35 (exciter R2) is connected to motor temp sense ground on the PDM (pin 31) .

Please see my photos, and if you have any idea what the hell I've done to mix all the pins up . Is this some half year revision or something?

[jrbe]

Looks to me that you're on the wrong row for the motor controller board. Looks to be labeled 1-20, then the next row is 21-40, right? I see it as you have 17 and 15. Unless you're labeling another connector number at the PC board..

[deleteduser1]

Looks to me that you're on the wrong row for the motor controller board. Looks to be labeled 1-20, then the next row is 21-40, right? I see it as you have 17 and 15. Unless you're labeling another connector number at the PC board..

I guess that wasn't too clear, and I'll update my post. Thanks for your feedback.

The numbers are pertaining to the green 36 pin external connector on the PDM from a 2011.

[deleteduser1]

Still no dice but here's a running list of where I am if anyone is keeping up:

• ZV will go into Run with full Nissan battery pack and BMS installed.

• All wiring has been checked and I'm very confident is correct.

• Resolver wiring is correct, shielded, twisted pairs, coils compared impedances against manual (38ohm SIN/COS/15ohm EX/15k ohm Temp). Continuity from resolver (external ) all the way to PDM PCB

• Resolver pairs were swapped individually and in multiple permutations just for reference.

• Motor will spin briefly if the ZV&PDM are powered on and pedal pressed within the first 1-2 seconds of boot up. (PDM will put this out regardless of presence/connection of ZV)

• If a 7-10khz signal at 6v P-P is sent from a standalone to the resolver exciter, I can see opposing some waves on SIN/COS pairs that alternate when the motor is spun by hand

• Torque and speed are registering as -204 and 16383 which are the defaults/fallbacks I've found in the code , and I now get that reading regardless of resolver in any wiring setup or if it's plugged in . (Something not right here)

• Pedal is calibrated

.

• Using solid standalone 13.5v /80A psu for 12v system.

• ZV has been updated to 2.30

• Leaf ran without error or codes prior to disassembly

Also of note: Zombieverter arrived with components broken off, and have not been able to get a response from Damien regarding possible issues regarding that. I don't think it's causing an issue as they were broken at the solder joints and tested ok out of circuit and were cleanly resoldered. Still suspect of this.

Any suggestions anyone has would be appreciated. I will leave this open and update it for others if I find a solution

[deleteduser1]

I went through and photographed the PDM PCB to check for any more info. I haven't seen this datasheet previously, but maybe others have it.

Anyway, this is the resolver controller datasheet for the Gen1 Leaf.

[tom91]

You sure all your inverter connections are made, including any temperature sensors?

That turned out to be an issue for another user. viewtopic.php?p=85918#p85918

[Jack Bauer]

Ok, I'm literally waiting for paint to dry so I'll jump in. I did indeed receive your email (amongst many others) but as I have made crystal clear in the past I DO NOT get involved with other people's projects. Nothing against you or anyone else its down to me being not in a fit mental state to disengage. What that basically means is I won't be able to sleep until everyone's project is up and running and that is a very quick way to a breakdown.

So lets see : You have a known good leaf stack removed from a car. Connected up with the OEM loom correct?

The motor will spin briefly if throttle applied quickly after Run mode entered? But will then stop responding to throttle requests?

If so this indicated the inverter entering a fault state.

You do not receive motor rpm nor motor temp correct?

Here is my advice. Make a video, show us everything. Nice and slow and in detail. If you don't wish to appear in public just make it unlisted on youtube and send Tom and I a link. You can then delete it when we have seen the setup.

[deleteduser1]

You sure all your inverter connections are made, including any temperature sensors?

That turned out to be an issue for another user. viewtopic.php?p=85918#p85918

Yes it is wired correctly and the temp sensor is included . I will again post my wiring below . There is continuity from the PDM pins (internal) to the end with the connector on the motor. It is all connected. I'm not sure if this in reference to another temp sensor, bit the one on my resolver is connected.

I'll also restate, the resolver pairs match the impedances listen in the service manual, whether I test them on the connector, or all the way up the wiring loom. The temp sensor changes with climate conditions and appears to be functional and accurate. I have swapped pairs to see if there is a difference, no difference is observed in operations or UI numbers.

PDM Pin / Resolver Pin & ID / color
1 / 1 Sin + / Black
6 / 8 Sin - / Green
20 / 7 Cos + / Pink
27 / 6 Cos - / Blue
31 / 4 Temp gnd / Orange
32 / 3 Temp / BLK&PNK
34 / 5 EX / Red
35 / 2 ! EX / Green

[tom91]

Here is a manual with EM61 specific wiring info to compare. https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/images ... 9908742192 on page 11

It maybe good to run leafspy on the CANbus with an obd2 adapter to try and read the inverter faults if possible. I have never tried this myself, or ever personally wired a leaf drivetrain.

[deleteduser1]

Here is a manual with EM61 specific wiring info to compare. https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/images ... 9908742192 on page 11

It maybe good to run leafspy on the CANbus with an obd2 adapter to try and read the inverter faults if possible. I have never tried this myself, or ever personally wired a leaf drivetrain.

Thank you, yeah, i've already seen this manual and it indeed matches my wiring. So I don't think that's it.

I didn't realize I could run leaf spy on barely any leaf hardware, but I'll look into it, thanks for that info.

Also, I went ahead and bought another PDM and I'll see if that's the culprit when it arrives later this week.

[Jack Bauer]

If the inverter was running in the car then its likely to be fine. Something however is causing it to enter a fault state from which it will not recover until all 12v power is removed for a time and reapplied which explains the effects you are observing. A leafspy check would be most revealing as Tom suggests.

Re the problem of the Zombie having component damage I doubt its the problem here but I will of course send a replacement if it looks to be the cause.

Circuit diagrams , board layouts and BOM are freely available on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32- ... r/Hardware

[J0hannes]

My experience is limited to Gen2 Leaf parts. Leafspy can read any single module PDM, Inverter and LBC separate or together, you just have to change the mode in Leafspy settings.

I have Leafspy pro and at least that can read and reset the dtcs.
Totally worth the 15ish€ it costs an really is peanuts on the 1000s€ budget I've in my favorite past time of EV conversion.


If reading the following makes anyone feel aggrevated, don't take it personally as I'm trying to shine light on the thing that's happening on this forum in many places, not just in this topic.


For some reason I'm getting similar vibes to another currently active "why my zombieverter+leaf parts is not working?" -topic where it took a lengthy time to get the OP to post the asked details for the community could identify a missing/not connected temperature sensor on a gen3 Leaf inverter to be the culprit. Just throwing it out there, but maybe youve gone too deep into details while chasing the probable cause you think to be the culprit that it would be a good moment to take a step back and look at your setup as a whole?

Given that this thread will find readers long after your issues are solved, I hope that the following will help beeetown to reorient on the community trouble shooting and maybe there is someone else reading this who needs to hear it out. So I'm not just addressing beeetown but anyone struggling with wiring related troubles.

Don't be so adamant that you have checked that the wiring is "correct" and then proceed by listing that from connector A pin 1 it goes to connector B pin 8 etc... That's a sure way to overlook a minor detail somewhere which could prove to be the culprit. Since you've sliced the original motor control harness, there may be some errors even after all those rechecks. Not just focusing on resolver wiring bit how you power up the modules compared to Nissan OEM etc. Not sure about Gen1 Leaf, but for example in Gen 2, colors change on some wiring, so one can't just rely on matching wire colors and expect it being correct.

We have yet to see a single decent picture or a video of the wiring you have done, which would give an outside observer a full picture of the wiring job you have done. When you go through the effort to make it visible to others how you actually did it you may also find the issue in the process.
I know it may feel dumb, but what would be the best possible result that you are asked to do is take a picture of the PDM connector, how the wires are pinned, then next picture of the splices the wires go to, then the other end i.e the resolver, zombieverter ecu connector. A few pictures of the whole setup WILL help as they give context to the detail photos.

No, I'm not saying that the problem couldn't be the resolver ot the PDM, just asking to help the helpers and make the effort for others to have a better chance of helping out with the problems you face.

Sincel you state that it was a running system before you touched it and after botching the wiring it doesn't. Simplest explanation is that the cause of problems is something you did (wiring issue). Unless you diagnose by other means that the components are functioning without system halting error codes, the malfunction at hand is likely not solved by purchasing more parts of "unknown" condition. Worst case you'll introduce a malfunctioning component to a system that could have been made functional.

I have been in the rewiring hell and fell for the stupid overconfidence trap.

[deleteduser1]

If the inverter was running in the car then its likely to be fine. Something however is causing it to enter a fault state from which it will not recover until all 12v power is removed for a time and reapplied which explains the effects you are observing. A leafspy check would be most revealing as Tom suggests.

Re the problem of the Zombie having component damage I doubt its the problem here but I will of course send a replacement if it looks to be the cause.

Wired up the OBD to the CAN Bus:
Leafspy says there are errors with the Leaf Battery (which I knew about), P3180-00-C0/EVC-249 HV Battery System, and P334D4-00-0E/EVB-130 Bat internal resistance. I wasn't planning on using this pack anyway, but its easier to test with this whole thing for now. I have BMW cells Im planning on using when I get this thing running.

Unfortunately, these are the errors that already existed when I bought the car

replacement PDM arrives tomorrow.

[tom91]

Try running the inverter and see if it has any dtcs, do not turn off the 12V to it between trying to run and pulling DTCs

[Jack Bauer]

Yeah , disconnect the battery CAN. Just have Zombie and the inverter on the bus.

[deleteduser1]

Yeah , disconnect the battery CAN. Just have Zombie and the inverter on the bus.

Ok, ran Leafspy without any HV battery connections, and it reported back "No DTC's" but also had the scan DTCs button greyed out. I don't understand how it couldn't complain about the missing components, so I am going to acquire another ODB scanner to make sure. Admittedly I have no experience or knowledge of Leafspy and its not exactly new user friendly, so this could be my own ignorance. Doing some reading tonight.

Also, no surprise, the replacement PDM didn't change the situation. That would have been too easy.

I went ahead and took the resolver cover to make 100% sure I had the pin orientation correct. Thankfully, since the temp sensor pin pair are in the corner of the connector, that makes it really easy to verify that, yes, indeed, the pin orientation I am using is how its supposed to be.

So, I will offer up a pic of my setup in the hopes me and everyone else that has checked this is crazy and its ass-backwards. Id love it to be the wires. So much.

[J0hannes]

beeetown,

Other than the picture of the inverter connector in your presentation seems to be mirrored, the wires which can be distinguished where they go, don't see a wire that wouldn't match the motor control harness pinout.

For example the resolver wire colors seem to match the connector. This is found in the Power supply, ground and circuit elements annex.

Would you be willing to take the step back and compile a "current state" of your setup? Again I don't ask this only for me, but for Tom, Damien and the OpenInverter community

Meaning:

• Do you currently have the setup in the state where you can get the motor to spin momentarily as you had earlier? If not, can you get it to that state?

• Would you for clarity list the modules you have connected to Zombieverter? Would you provide a picture of the Zombieverter connector and list which wire whould be which in the said picture?

• Would you elaborate on how you have connected the +12V power to Zombieverter and the Leaf modules? I.e. do you have Zombieverter controlling the inverter power by a relay or are all +12V connections wired directly to the lab supply?

• Are you currently doing the tests with the BMW modules or with the Leaf battery

• As you have updated Zombieverter FW version and probably changed parameters, can you provide an up to date params json AND a CAN trace of the system spinning the motor briefly?

• When getting the trace, if possible start recording just before you start the system then do the sequence for example: Zombie into run mode and switch to drive/reverse, press throttle, back to neutral, shutdown --> stop trace

Which mode did you have selected with Leaf Spy (pro?) when you tried the DTC reading?
Would you do a recheck with LeafSpy so that you have HV on, or what did you mean by "ran Leafspy without any HV battery connections"

If you have not downloaded these already, fetch the CAN DBC and use it with savvycan and translate the messages, it helps out that once you get a little familiar on the data structure and what you want/need to look at.
https://github.com/dalathegreat/leaf_can_bus_messages

So that's me beeping my little heart out like you said in you PM to me

[tom91]

It is clear there is something the inverter is not happy with.

Please note that I cannot place blame on zombie software because there are people running the zombie with the leaf gen 1 motor and inverter.

viewtopic.php?p=83888#p83888 example along side Damiens own BMW.

Please reduce factors involved. I suggest as Damien has, disconnect BMS CAN. Only have the inverter and the ZombieVerter on the CAN along with the logger. Then try running it, logging it as follows after configuring the Zombie:
1. 12V positive on
2. ignition on
3. Start signal
4. Forward
5. Apply throttle
6. Select reverse
7. Apply Throttle
8. Neutral
9. Key off
10. wait 30s and stop log.

[deleteduser1]

Wasn't able to get a CAN log today, my CAN hardware decided to stop liking my work computer, So ill just bring mine into the shop tomorrow and get more data.

I got a Leafspy scan once I read the .... manual, and i've attached it below. I'll leave that up to interpretation. A lot of if is complaints from disconnected CAN systems, but it also has what may be a resolver or a handful of other things.

I did also read the motor when I spun it by hand, and got a graph in the ZV UI. It works both ways, and Im assuming speed is derived from the resolver output, so there's that. If thats the case, then that points to possibly ok resolver?

Also, the motor does spin up when the initial blip happens at the boot time, and it appears to be responsive to throttle input for those brief few seconds. Also a check for the resolver being ok. Coils are all still within spec, no burns or shorts, no discolored enamel, either....

Are there resolvers available? The leaf Service Manual says replace the motor if the resolver is bad.

This is still screaming bad wiring, but I just cannot find where that could be.

Again, thank you all for helping and sticking with me.

[J0hannes]

Looked these up for y'all
Nissan FSM lists these on a priority in which they should be checked

1.

• P0A8D 14VOLT POWER VOLTAGE
  P0C79 DRIVE MOTOR A INVERTER VOLTAGE
  P318E CAN ERROR
  P3193 CAN ERROR
  P3197 CAN ERROR
  U1000 CAN COMM CIRCUIT

2.

• P0A1B DRIVE MOTOR A CONTROL MODULE

3.

• P324F DRIVE MOTOR A INVERTER IGBT

This is still screaming bad wiring, but I just cannot find where that could be.

Why you don't want to share your full wiring with few images?

Have you checked that you supply the inverter enough +12V power and that your lab power supply? Are you supplying a high enough voltage (9-16V as per TMS-32)?

P0C79 Drive Motor “A” Inverter Voltage Too High

If the high voltage DC voltage is too high

• Traction motor inverter
• High voltage harness or connector
• Li-ion battery
• High voltage parts except for trac-
tion motor inverter

P318E CAN data error
If traction motor inverter detects CAN data error
VCM

P3193 CAN data error
If traction motor inverter detects CAN data error
Li-ion battery controller

P3197 CAN data error
If traction motor inverter detects CAN data error
Electric shift control module

U1000 CAN communication line

If CAN communications signals continu-
ously cannot be transmitted
Harness or connectors
(CAN communication line is open or short-
ed.)

P0A1B Drive Motor “A” Control Module
A malfunction is detected in the traction motor inverter (motor controller) Traction motor inverter
CAUTION:
If this DTC is detected simultaneously with P0A8D, inspect the 12V battery first, as it is suspected to
be dead.

P324F Drive Motor “A” Inverter IGBT Over Current / Over Temperature /Over Voltage

• If an over current has occurred in the IGBT
energizing current
• If IGBT temperature is too high
• If there is overvoltage in the high voltage DC
voltage

• Traction motor inverter
• Traction motor
• High voltage harness or connec-
tor
• High voltage cooling system
• Li-ion battery
• High voltage parts except for trac-
tion motor inverter
CAUTION:
• If this DTC is detected simultaneously with P0A8D, inspect the 12V battery first, as it is suspected to
be dead.

[deleteduser1]

Please reduce factors involved. I suggest as Damien has, disconnect BMS CAN. Only have the inverter and the ZombieVerter on the CAN along with the logger. Then try running it, logging it as follows after configuring the Zombie:

I ran another log, but it didnt show anything besides 0x1DA or 0x55A . I tried to do the things you requested , but I dont know that they show up.

But I will have to put the BMW cells back up on it next week, because i just welded the stupid contactors in the leaf pack. ugh. I tried to give them a gentle tap and that didnt work. I also tried a very not gentle tap and they still are stuck boohoo

Ill be back at it in a couple of days.