Info on BMW hybrid battery packs?

[Gregski]

Thanks! Are you able to get the part numbers from the main fuse (orange cylinder) by any chance?

more nauseating detail can be found here: I bought a BMW 530e hybrid battery pack - Now What?

[Gregski]

Thanks! ...

You're welcome lOl

stock current shunt adhered to the OEM logic board (I could not separate these two, not sure you are supposed to)

I know I am late to the party and this has been discovered already, I am just sharing, the contactors are identical Panasonic AEV14012 M25 specs claim them to be only 120A ?

note the additional busbar adapter thingies on this fuse below, this is how Digi-Key sells them for those of you considering moding your Safety Box

[Gregski]

Hello? (Hello? Hello? Hello?)

Is there anybody in there?
Just nod if you can hear me

[Gregski]

BMW 530e Safety Box just the pre-charge circuit

[bobby_come_lately]

FYI I've blown through a bunch of the resistors in these packs (through idiocy) to the point where I couldn't find any more. It's fairly easy to re-route the wiring outside to a different size/shape, with all the usual safety caveats.

[arber333]

FYI I've blown through a bunch of the resistors in these packs (through idiocy) to the point where I couldn't find any more. It's fairly easy to re-route the wiring outside to a different size/shape, with all the usual safety caveats.

For use in place of resistor i would recommend NTC inrush limiters with a propper voltage rating.
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ame ... wDPQ%3D%3D

[cloudy]

Out of interest, how have you been blowing the resistors? Pulling drive current without the main positive contactor pulled in?

[bobby_come_lately]

Out of interest, how have you been blowing the resistors? Pulling drive current without the main positive contactor pulled in?

Close - powering up DC-DC before it closed. Long story. Fixed it months ago now but cost me three resistors before I did.

[Gregski]

I couldn't help but see the similarities between the BMW Safety box and this one from a first gen Nissan Leaf (YouTube just suggested this video today) thought you may find it interesting

[Turbopete]

Meanwhile, I am using box but I removed original controller, wired contactors directly to external connector and fitted ISA sensor which fits nicely (with very small modification of the busbar).

Does anyone know what connector I need to connect to the main sbox connector - I don’t want to cut wires if I can help it - arturk has used one in the above post but I can’t see any reference to it anywhere?

[bobby_come_lately]

Meanwhile, I am using box but I removed original controller, wired contactors directly to external connector and fitted ISA sensor which fits nicely (with very small modification of the busbar).

Does anyone know what connector I need to connect to the main sbox connector - I don’t want to cut wires if I can help it - arturk has used one in the above post but I can’t see any reference to it anywhere?

If you don't have the one from the original loom, you can just use DuPont connectors with the standard 2.54mm pitch. That's what I've done.

[Turbopete]

Has anyone managed to fry the csc modules on these? I have simpbms working great on a teensy outputting good info but after playing around with a canalyst-ii I don’t appear to be receiving any can data from the modules at all - the serial output shows “module missing” when I disconnect the modules I can see the can traffic but as soon as I connect them everything stops? Any guidance massively appreciated!!!

[bobby_come_lately]

Not had that experience. I've buggered about with mine in a few (accidental) ways and they've survived thus far. Assuming they were still getting the same 5v supply with the canalyst?

[Turbopete]

Upon further investigation it looks like the fault moves around with the connectors so im going to strip the bmw loom and try to figure out whats gone amiss!

[Turbopete]

If anyone has access to a known good csc module - please could you check the resistance across can high and can low on the pins going into the module? I’m getting 44k ohms which I suspect is not right!

[bobby_come_lately]

Nope - I get 43.3k ohms on known good CSC. I think that's right.

[tom91]

I have dug through the thread and gotten most of the info together.

The main question that would remain open is has anyone been able to utilize a full pack and get the contactors to close? Or has anyone used just the Sbox and gotten the contactors to close over the canbus?

[bobby_come_lately]

I think someone (@Outlandishpanda maybe?) did get the contactors to close over canbus but I went with re-wiring it as it felt safer. I know there's a lot of scepticism about the OEM relay/contactors but I've been using mine without issue since September now.

[Turbopete]

Nope - I get 43.3k ohms on known good CSC. I think that's right.

Thanks for that - I get the same! I’ve got another good set on the way now anyway so I should be able to move forward again!

[OutlandishPanda]

I tried, but no, I couldn't get the S-BOX to close the contactors over CAN. I hard wired them to my BMS like bobby_come_lately.

I do use the current (ID 0x200), pack voltage (ID 0x210) and DC Bus voltage (ID 0x220) data from the S-BOX, which is fantastic quality and integrates well with SimpBMS. Except, the CSCs pop out an ID0x200 message occasionally which has to be actively ignored as I have the CSCs and S-BOX on the same CAN bus inside the pack.

I'm really interested in how to get the earth leakage detection working... A few of us have got it to connect to the HV lines we think... Would be nice to have that working as it is "there".

Also, I heard yesterday it is a UK "legal requirement" for high voltage batteries to have a physical HV disconnect. "Contactors alone are not acceptable" due to them having the possibility to weld closed in an accident. Clearly BMW disagree as they rely on HVIL break for service disconnect only in these packs and even the i3, I think, does not have a pack splitting service disconnect?? Anyone got a view on this? Just wondering if I need to add such a thing?

Earth leakage detection is also a "requirement" apparently, hence my interest. These "requirements" are probably from a homologation point of view.

[OutlandishPanda]

Ref Turbopete's question, the Vin pin is really the 5V out from USB connection, just for that test. So the laptop is directly powering the modules over USB 5V. The Teensy has an on-board regulator from that same 5V down to 3.3V, but that is not used to power the CSCs on the modules. In the real application, I'm using a 12V to 5V switching regulator for the CSCs and also the Teensy Vin (which is then the 5V in for Teensy) and using its onboard regulator for the 3.3V to supply just the Teensy micro. Hope that helps.

[Scutterbob]

I've been reading these forums for a few months. I bought a random BWM module with the CSC module. I've been working with a friend to try and talk to the module by CAN bus, but we've not yet hand any luck. I'm attaching pictures I took and the pins I think I've traced. I'm not sure if we can use can bus directly with just these CSC modules but I thought it must be possible somehow. It seems there's many versions of these CSC control boards, and some differences. We've been working with a can shield on an Arduino, and gotten nothing. Not even sure we're hooking it up correctly, given the Hhigh, Hlow, Lhigh and Llow. I've read the lows as an inverted signal, and assumed I don't need to use them? Not sure how to find the address of the device, if we have to identify it and send it a wakeup somehow?

[mjc506]

Ah, that looks like one of the secondary CSCs - only the first module on the second gen packs has the CAN interface.

You can talk to that chip over UART, it will need some careful soldering though.

https://github.com/mjc-506/bmsSerial/


Or Catphish has a gadget that talks using the COM lines directly - no hardware mods needed.

[Clanky]

Hi all, I must say the stuff you have put on here is brilliant. Has anyone run the 12kwh packs in parallel with BMS working for both battery packs? I want to run 2 packs of these 12 kwh batteries in parallel to give a bigger punch and range. Any help will be hugely appreciated. If possible I would like to use the BMW BMS, but would consider using an aftermarket system if it is easier/safer.
Cheers

[SWAES2]

My front pack they are mounted on the side, and they front pack is normally 3 degrees cooler than the rear pack in the boot

Hi,
Can you let me know how you connected your busbars to the Battery module + and - ?
Sam