I request your contact email, if possible for you.

In forums, it's considered best to keep technical conversations in the open, rather than private. Perhaps you could offer to start a thread that contains your question(s), or if they're related to this thread, just post them here?

If you have ...

Thanks for that info, Alex.

This might be a good place to crosspost a link for an LDU issue that might be becoming more prevalent nowadays, with the aging LDU population: the LDU Control PCB has a resistor network consisting of R105/R106, 40.2Ω SMD resistors, that link chassis ground and encoder ("speed sensor") grounds. One ...

I haven't found a generic J3400 charge inlet with locking, but then I haven't been looking since I posted over a year ago. I expect that more scrapyard options -- besides Tesla -- will become available shortly, as several mfgrs are now selling BEVs with J3400 charge inlets in the NA market. I've ...

The image supplied by @Raine in the Wiki shows the 1k/10k lock state resistors as internal to the i3's charge port. I've sold my i3 charge inlet; can someone verify this?

https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=34219&t=1

In case the FC contactor weld issue is not transitory . . .

IDK about the M3, but the FC contactors are very easy to access for replacement on the older Model S; inside the rear HVJB, under the back seat. 10 minute job. Lots of ...

Install new DCFC leads (charge port to new HVJB)
Install new HVDC leads from charge port's leads to HVJB location May involve dropping the HV battery (840 lbs) a few inches Possibly, the leads may be run down the unused trans/driveshaft tunnel


I had the nearly-ubiquitous HV contactor ...

From my understanding the PP resistor of 1k5 shall be in the plug, without the possibility to deactivate this. It would be quite dangerous if the plug is in but the vehicle does not see it. Could you check at the plug with a multimeter? I've never seen other values than 1k5 on public chargers.
We ...

Digikey recommended this to me as an alternate when the other one was OOS. It was cheaper, and now that I have it in my hands I can verify it fits the connector. Drawing sheet also seemed to have identical critical dimensions when I checked it.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/amphenol ...

You might mark the thread closed "[SOLD]". There's a button somewhere at the top of the page that'll do it, for the OP only, I forget exactly where.

As with QCC's JDemo, the car will have to be in Ready mode, as the BMS controls the contactors and the BMS will only close them when its happy. QCC's contractor was unable to persuade the BMS to close the contactors without being in Ready, though I'm planning on looking at this independently; as the ...

The early Tesla pumps, as used on the RAV4 EV, have a regular failure pattern. They don't leak, but they do stop pumping (either not running, or running too slowly, IDK). I've read about several failures of the early Tesla pumps, but none were for leakage. Failures are common, though not ...

Arlin wrote: ↑Thu Sep 12, 2024 3:57 am Did you figure out where to tie into the DC pack voltage?

See Post 1, "New HVJB, Part 2".

I'll be pushing power back to the battery via the leads that run from the HV pack to the LDU. 50kw max.

nilsvr wrote: ↑Fri Jun 03, 2022 7:45 am I also have the contactors from an I3 Battery pack and will check if they have an economizer.

For those who follow: the i3 LIM sends PWM to non-economized contactors.
viewtopic.php?p=28239#p28239

I'm guessing it tries to communicate using 5% CP with Tesla's proprietary protocol first, and if the car accepts that, it stays in it. If the car doesn't accept it, then it will switch to standard CP.


I found where I'd read something on this, in a discussion of DCFC and how Tesla designs their ...

I have contactors out of an I3 (that should be fine without an economizer circuit)

BMW i3 LIM sends PWM to the i3's contactors.
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=28239#p28239

https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=9621&t=1

If you're using i3 contactors, you'll have ...

I'm guessing it tries to communicate using 5% CP with Tesla's proprietary protocol first, and if the car accepts that, it stays in it. If the car doesn't accept it, then it will switch to standard CP.
No data, but that's similar to how the Tesla Wallbox operation (GEN1) was described to me years ...

I bought a gallon of "waterless coolant" that is pretty much just glycol, but I never got around to testing it in various ways -- it's still on a shelf in my garage. I had the same thought as you: minimize the damage from water. But just going "dry rotor" is a better option, IMO -- at least, that's ...

Yes, it's been considered. Over on the TeslaMotors forum.

QCC's coolant delete manifold is supposedly equipped such that you could circulate eg ATF instead of a water-based coolant. AFAIK, nobody's reported actually doing that.

Meanwhile, dozens or hundreds of the SS formed cap plugs have been ...

Revolt in Arizona says they've got https://www.myrav4ev.com/threads/another-doa-rav-time-to-troubleshoot-seems-obc-fuses-are-fine.2635/post-31095 .

I can't get into the specifics, but we found a solution that dissolves the crystallized coolant without affecting the stator potting material nor the ...

Please use forum's native attachment schema rather than hotlinking.

Image hosting sites die off all the time (see: PhotoBucket).

I haven't installed your seal, and I'm probably not going to, since I've gone to dry rotor. So, no feedback from me

Nice idea! Not in your USD$50 budget (unless you have a lathe already, and most people do not).

If I own a CNC mill, then a bespoke coolant manifold is "simple and cheap", but for the typical person this is not the situation.

If I own a lathe, etc.

I don't know how you can have all these parameters in a single solution:

Retain stator coolant flow Discontinue rotor coolant flow Reversible (non-destructive) modification of OEM coolant manifold (optional) Retain flyover tube coolant flow

A stator coolant feed adapter is simple enough to make ...

muehlpower wrote: ↑Mon Jun 10, 2024 3:20 pm Has anyone thought about a simple bolt on coolant delete solution that doesn't require the tube to be sawn off and is reversible?

Covered in the first post of this thread. There are several on the market, QCC, Revolt, etc. Expensive.